Move of the Moment - The Dyno
The dyno, the showpiece of modern climbing. All-limbs off the wall, flying through the air with a heroic catch at the end. The dyno pulls people towards the sport, and is arguably the foundation for some of the most entertaining-to-watch climbing movies & competitions.
Technically, any "dynamic" move can be called a dyno (just as climbs that require you to be short could also be called "morpho"), but when we talk about dynos, we mean the full experience - flight.
Last week we ran through the basics of the Deadpoint. Today, we'll be expanding on that movement and adding a few extra steps. Once you've mastered the Deadpoint, the Dyno is a natural progression.
We've got Jack back on the demonstration today, showing us some skill on the dyno. Jack begins by creating movement with his hips (his centre of gravity), which we covered briefly on the Deadpoint. Jack swings in an arc motion, rather than side to side or straight up - the arc creates a much better movement.
Jack is aiming to dyno slightly diagonally in this movement. If Jack was moving straight up, he would still create a curved movement by moving his hips away from the wall as he swings up.
After a few practice swings (try and keep these under 3 for better efficiency), Jack begins his Dyno. As his centre of gravity swings towards the target hold, he pushes hard through his left leg. This increases the speed of the swing towards his right leg. As his bodyweight then moves over his right leg, he pushes hard upwards on this leg. At the same time, Jack attempts to throw the handhold(s) down towards the floor, and lets go, rising his arms upwards towards the hold. Think of this as a 1-2 movement, executed rapidly and fluidly.
Always attempt to catch the next hold with a bent arm, to better control any excess movement, and reduce injury. Ensure you are properly warmed up before trying out any dynos. When pushing through your feet, try and kick/push the holds off the wall, rather than your body upwards - this helps keep tension through the movement.
Try out the dyno next time you're at the wall - can you miss out any holds?
Want to learn more about this move and others? Why not book on to one of our improver courses: